Land Rover Defender 90 & Series SWB Rear Tub Floor Assembly

Underfloor Support Strutt HDG - Defender & Series 2 & 3

Brand new under floor supports made by YRM These will fit Land Rover Defender and Series 2 & 3. These have the cut outs in for the forward facing seats Please be aware there may be some imperfections, i.e. excessive galv and in some instances where there was too much excessive galv, they have been flattened off before reaching mild steel and cold galv spray has been applied. To view workshop, click here

~~£35.00~~

Rear Floor Support Top Hat

Rear floor supports for Defender 90 and Series SWB Land Rovers. Made from 1.5mm thick aluminium. CNC cut and pressed for accuracy. You are purchasing ONE top hat. To view workshop, click here

Option
A Rivets
B Rivets	Clear

~~£4.00~~

1 x Rear Stainless Steel Door Thresh

Rear door thresh for Defender Land Rovers (1987 onwards) The door threshes are made from stainless steel 304 grade bright annealed 1.5mm thick and are laser cut and CNC pressed. These are an exact replacement for Land Rover part no. AFP 710120 and are an alternate to your old, tired metal door thresh. Fixings included (8no No.8 x 16 pz2 Stainless Steel Screws) Land Rover Manufacturers part no. AFP710120 To view workshop, click here

~~£17.00~~

1 x Rear Door Rubber Seal

Rear door rubber seal for Defender & Series 2 & 3 Land Rovers. You are purchasing the rubber door seal only, the stainless steel door thresh is available product ref. 091 on this website. Land Rover Manufacturers part no. ALR4770 To view workshop, click here

~~£9.00~~

1 x Rear Tub Floor - LR Defender 90 & Series SWB

Land Rover Defender 90 & Series SWB Rear Tub Floor 915mm x 1245mm long To view workshop, click here

Option
A Rivets
B Rivets	Clear

~~£48.00~~

1 x Rear Floor Support

This Land Rover Defender & Series floor support is made from 3mm aluminium. Fits between the rear angle body mount (YRM product ref YRM097 and the rear floor) Ideal rivets for fitting to rear body angle and top hats are YRM product ref YRM1003 (countersunk rivets) To view workshop, click here

~~£13.00~~

3no.	061	Land Rover Defender 90/110/130 & Series SWB/LWB Underfloor Support Strutt
3no.	087	Land Rover Defender 90/Series SWB Rear Floor Support Top Hat
1no.	091	Land Rover Defender & Series 2 & 3 Rear Door Thresh
1no.	092	Land Rover Defender & Series 2 & 3 Rear Door Rubber Seal
1no.	103	Land Rover Defender 90 & Series SWB Rear Tub Floor
1no.	116	Land Rover Defender & Series Rear Floor Support
	1001	Type A Rivets Grip Range 1.6mm – 6.2mm Pk 100
	1002	Type B Rivets Grip Range 4.8mm – 11mm Pk 100

Tools used

Selection of spanners and sockets set
Riveter
Drill and various drill bits
Tape measure and Marker
Hammer and bolster chisel
Appropriate PPE, Goggles, Gloves, Boots

Steps

1	The rear tub prior to any work commencing.
2	The spot have located by using a wire brush and removing the paint then the rivets around the perimeter, if you are not bothered about keeping the floor they can be cut out using grinder or if you’re keeping it centre pop rivets and drill out.
3	The top hat has corroded through and wasn’t even fixed down.
4	The floor has been removed and you can get a better assessment of what needs replacing
5	The top hats and under floor supports have been removed by drilling out rivets and were they were attached to under floor supports to avoid drilling tank I used a bolster chisel. The rear floor support can also be removed by drilling out spot welds take plenty of measurements here so it goes back in the same place.
6	The under floor supports have been placed in position loosely and have had PVC tape put on ends to act as a barrier between the mild steel under floor support and aluminium wings to prevent electro static reaction. Then I used a straight edge to line the holes up to make it easier for fitting the top hats.
7	The top hat have been loosely put in place along with the rear floor support to be marked up for the rivets ensuring you don’t clash with door thresh fixing or previous holes, if you are fitting top hat to a series SWB they will need cutting down in lenght.
8	The rear floor support has been pre-drilled, and then offered into place ensuring it goes back in previous position. Then riveting back in place ensuring you don’t use mild steel rivets otherwise you’ll get electro static reaction.
9	Offer the top hat in place with the joggle to the rear door and mark were the top comes into contact with the under floor supports and then mark up the other 2 and apply PVC tape to prevent electro static reaction.
10	Offer in the top hat and match drill with the under floor support, if you don’t have your tank in the back then you can match drill from the underside. If your tank is in the rear put a piece of plate under the under floor support to prevent drilling through your tank, and then fit all 3.
11	Mark where you intend on fixing the floor in place then offer the floor in, then use a straight edge to mark, then drill and fix in place put 2 fixings in to start then drill the rest to prevent the floor from moving so the holes will line up, if fitting floor to a series SWB it will need cutting down in length.
12	The floor fixed in place then offer in rear rubber door seal and rear door thresh and match drill and fix.