1

While its completely possible to undertake this work with the tub in situ, it’s a lot easier with it removed, especially as I have additional repairs to undertake

2

Initially, the best working position is with the tub stood on its rear end with some protection underneath it. Ensure it is completely stable before working.

3

I started by unbolting the three under-floor support struts which where galvanised replacement . There were no rivets to drill connecting to the top hats.

4

At all nine points where the steel struts touched the aluminium top hat they’ve been eaten . New parts from YRM Metal Solutions will replace these.

5

With the tub now correct way up, the rear threshold needs removing. Chances are, the screws need a good dose of WD40 to make undoing easier.

6

With all floor coverings removed, the rivets and spot welds holding the floor panel down are exposed. I’ll be replacing the floor too, as its seen better days.

7

Working my way around the edge, drilling the rivets with a 5mm drill bit. There were some steel rivets on the front that needed help from an angle grinder.

8

You’ll spend a fair bit of time drilling out rivets around the outer edge, and you can use a hammer and punch to knock them through

9

If you were keeping your original floor, you’d have to grind more carefully than this, but the floor is nearly ready to come out.

10

If the original floor is to be retained, then all the spot welds holding the top hats to the underside would also need drilling out.

11

To replace the rear floor support (YRM part 116), which is below the floor at the rear threshold position, use a wire brush to expose the spot welds for drilling.

12

Your 5mm drill bit would have had quite a workout at this stage so it might be getting a little blunt. I used a couple on this project.

13

Once the spot welds are drilled, you’ll need to use hammer and bolster to help separate the floor support from the angled body mount.

14

With the old floor loosely in place, I could line up the new rear floor support section and clamp it in place using clamps at both ends.

15

Before match drilling the old spot-welded holes, it’s worth noting where the holes go for the door threshold (previously removed) so you don’t clash with rivets.

16

I’d temporarily refitted the galvanised underfloor struts to straighten things up, though first I riveted the new rubber mounting spacers on by using this hand riveter.

17

The hand riveter was tough going and I realise that I needed to borrow a mate’s air riveter. That was far easier – there’s no going back now!

18

An absolute doddle with the use of an air riveter. Here using Type C countersunk rivets to ensure the new floor will sit flush against the support section.

19

With the three new top hats placed into position, ensuring that the joggled end sits underneath the rear floor support, its time to drill through.

20

Now they are riveted on from the tub side, as seen here. I also removed the bolts on the floor support members to match-drill through the new floor.

21

The beautiful mill-finish aluminium 2mm thick floor I snow laid in position and the protective coating peeled back – very satisfying. I won’t want to scratch it.

22

To secure the floor, a lot more drilling is required, match drilling from behind using the existing holes down the wheel arch edges, then riveting in place from the tub side. It’s worth making sure you drill and rivet as you go, rather than drill all the holes in one as you’ll find that each time a rivet goes in, it’ll pull up, and eventually your pre-drilled holes will no longer line up. Lastly, whenever steel touches aluminium, it’s worth bearing in mind that a gasket needs to be made up. Do this by purchasing a roll of sticky-sided foam tape from YRM (part no 1903/5m), or you can use PVC insulation tape. Simply cut to size and stick